Gucci constructs looks of casual grandeur as Tod's focuses on Artisanal Intelligence
Sept. 20, 2024, 5:15 p.m.
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MILAN -- The fashion palate cleanser of the season: white. Milan fashion houses, more often than not this season, are opening their runway preview shows for next spring and summer with all-white looks.
Tod’s emphasized white with tables of artisans crafting white driving shoes inside the showroom. The show opened with a crisp white look, as did a number of other fashion houses this week, including Moschino, Alberta Ferretti, Del Core, and Cavalli.
The fashion crowd arriving at the highly anticipated Gucci show entered through a white tunnel that opened into a vibrant sunset.
Highlights from the mostly womenswear previews for next spring and summer, presented on the fourth day of Milan Fashion Week on Friday:
Sabato De Sarno launches a new fashion season a year after unveiling his first Gucci collection, focusing on some of his personal favorites: tailoring, lingerie, leather, and a 1960s silhouette.
At its simplest, a white tank with Gucci-stripe trim was paired with dark trousers with a slit hemline over sneakers, inspired by menswear. At its most elaborate, Gucci-monogram overcoats flowed majestically down the runway, with lingerie peeking out from glossy, textured leather.
A blouse slipped effortlessly off the shoulder. Sequined gowns shimmered. Crepe dresses were accented with bamboo-shaped hardware. Mini-skirts had a slight puff. Floral headbands or wide-brimmed sunhats completed the looks.
De Sarno dubbed the collection “casual grandeur.”
“Every detail of my vision for Gucci has been meticulously crafted,” he explained in his notes. “A relaxed elegance that takes shape through my passions ... always with a touch of playful defiance."
Gucci's front row shimmered with the presence of Jessica Chastain, Kirsten Dunst, Nicola Coughlan — who paused to capture a selfie with fans — and Italy's own tennis star, Jannick Sinner, a Gucci ambassador. A throng of K-pop fans chanted in anticipation of the arrival of Jin from BTS, another brand ambassador.
In a world consumed by the buzz surrounding artificial intelligence, Tod’s highlighted the importance of artisanal intelligence.
Dozens of artisans surrounded the showroom, meticulously hand-stitching the brand’s signature Gommino driving shoe. Models emerged from beneath a pair of sculptor Lorenzo Quinn’s oversized white hands, grasping a leather spiral.
“Artisanal intelligence counters the prevailing discourse,’’ creative director Matteo Tamburini declared before the show. “Our focus lies in crafting exceptionally elevated products, which embody the essence of Made in Italy.”
The Spring-Summer 2025 collection commenced with crisp cotton pairings: trousers or skirts with oversized shirts. These looks were replicated in a supple leather, intentionally fluid for the warmer months, while a leather overcoat exuded a more robust vintage feel. Asymmetrical cuts and wraps imbued the collection with a touch of casual elegance. Looks were completed with barely-there criss-cross sandals, the new Gommino in glove leather or a clog version.
Tamburini stated that his sole use of AI is for generating talking points for journalists. “I'm not a writer,’’ he remarked, laughing.